Mum was in Japan for exactly two weeks so between a long weekend trip to Kyoto (below), an overnight trip to Hyogo (Kobe and Arima) and a four-day trip to Okinawa (blog and photos coming soon) we went for a day trip to Nara. As this was my third (and final) day trip to Nara in my year in Japan - first with the Kiwi kids on the Sakai Wellington Educational Exchange, and then Stuart on his first trip to Japan (the boys went on their own when they were here in December) – I have included some information that might be useful if you are heading there - thanks to the help of Japan Guide (again), Lonely Planet and Wikipedia/travel
Until the 7th century Japan had no permanent capital, as Shinto taboos concerning death stipulated that the capital be moved with the passing of each Emperor, This practice died out under the influence of Buddhism and with the Taika reforms of 646 when the entire country came under imperial control. Nara (called Heijō-kyō in those days) was the first capital of Japan from 710 to 784, lending its name to the Nara Period. According to an ancient Japanese book the name “Nara” Is derived from the Japanese work “narashita” meaning “made flat”. The temples of Nara remained powerful even beyond the move of the political capital to Heian-kyō in 794. Unlike Kyoto, Nara is quite compact and a lot of things are within walking distance from the station inside Nara Park - the park is about 20 minutes walk from JR Nara Station or 5 minutes walk from Kintetsu Nara Station - here are the places that I took Mum to on our day trip
Kofukuji
Hours: Always open (grounds), 9:00 - 17:00 (Treasure Hall and Eastern Golden Hall)
Admission; Free (grounds), Y500 (Treasure Hall), Y300 (Eastern Golden Hall)
Kofukuji used to be the family temple of the Fujiwara, the most powerful family clan during much of the Nara and Heian Periods. The temple was established in Nara at the same time as the capital in 710. At the height of Fujiwara power, the temple consisted of over 150 buildings. Today a couple of buildings of great historic value remain, including a five story pagoda and a three story pagoda. At 50 meters, the five story pagoda is Japan's second tallest, just seven meters shorter than the five story pagoda at Kyoto's Toji Temple. Kofukuji's pagoda is both a landmark and symbol of Nara. It was first built in 730, and was most recently rebuilt in 1426.
Nara Park
Nara Park (Nara Koen) was established in 1880 and is home to hundreds of freely roaming deer. Considered in Shinto to be messengers of the gods, Nara's nearly 1200 deer have become a symbol of the city and have been designated a natural treasure. Like the deer on Miyajima, Nara's deer are surprisingly tame, although they can be rather aggressive if they think you will feed them. Deer crackers are for sale around the park, and some deer have learned to bow to visitors asking to be fed. We walked through the park, past the Museum towards Nandaimon Gate, Mum enjoyed the deer but they were interested enough in her plastic bag with lunch inside that we didn't even need to bother buying deer crackers.
Nandaimon Gate
Technically this is part of Todaiji Temple (about 200m south of the temple enclosure) but it is so impressive that I have decided to give it it's own section. The present Nandaimon Gate was rebuilt in 1199 and stands at an impressive 25 metres.
This huge wooden gate is watched over by two fierce looking statues that are about 8 metres high each. These were carved in the 13th century by the sculptor Unkei, are some of the finest wooden statues in all of Japan, if not the world. Representing the Nio Guardian Kings, are are designated national treasures together with Nandaimon gate. The Nio's fierce and threatening appearance is said to ward off evil spirits and keep the temple grounds free of demons and thieves and act as a pair of protectors who commonly stand guard outside the temple gate at Japanese Buddhist temples, one on either side of the entrance. In Japan, the gate itself is often called the Nio-mon 仁王門 (literally Nio Gate). At Shinto shrines, however, the Nio guardians are replaced with a pair of koma-inu (shisha lion-dogs) or with two foxes. These mythical and magical shrine guardians are commonly (but not always) depicted with similar iconography -- one with mouth open, the other closed. Each is named after a particular cosmic sound. The open-mouth figure is called “Agyō,” who is uttering the sound “ah,” meaning birth. His close-mouth partner is called “Ungyō,” who sounds “un” or “om,” meaning death. If you look at their mouths, you will notice that one has its mouth open and the other has its mouth closed, said to represent life and death, the beginning and the end. I found this particularly interesting so won't bore you any further, but to read more about this click here
Todaiji Temple
Hours: 7:30 to 17:30 in summer (slightly shorter in other seasons)
Admission: Y500
Todaiji, literally the "Great Eastern Temple" is one of Japan's most famous and historically significant temples and a landmark of Nara.Todaiji was constructed in 752 as the head temple of all provincial Buddhist temples of Japan and grew so powerful that the capital was moved from Nara to Nagaoka in 784 in order to lower the temple's influence on government affairs. Not only is Todaiji housing Japan's largest bronze Buddha statue (Daibutsu), but it is also the world's largest wooden building, even though the present reconstruction of 1692 is only two thirds of the original temple's size. A popular attraction of Todaiji is a pillar inside the temple which has a hole in its base the same size as the Daibutsu's nostril. It is said that those who can squeeze through this opening will be granted enlightenment in their next reincarnation - its meant most for children, or petite adults (although Stuart fit through when he visited in October) but Mum and I didn't bother trying ;P
Nigatsu-do
Technically considered a "sub-complex" of Todai-ji, the Nigatsudo hall offers nice views of the city from its balcony. Nigatsudo literally means "second month hall", referring to the second month of the lunar calendar (roughly corresponding to March of the solar calendar) when the Omizutori festival is held. The spectacular Omizutori ceremonies are held annually March 1 through 14 so this is a great time to plan your day trip to Nara. This collection of Buddhist repentance rituals has been held every year for over 1250 years, making it the one of the oldest reoccurring Buddhist events in Japan. In the night from March 12 to March 13 between around 1:30am and 2:30am, priests descend repeatedly from the Nigatsudo by torchlight to draw water from a well at the base of the temple hall. The well's water is said to flow only once a year, and to have restorative powers. It is this event that is actually named Omizutori ("water drawing"). Yet the entire two-week event has become popularly known under its name. Among the many different events held during Omizutori, Otaimatsu is the most famous and spectacular. Just after sunset on every night from March 1 through 14, giant torches, ranging in length from six to eight meters, are carried up to Nigatsudo's balcony and held over the crowd. The burning embers, that shower down from the balcony, are thought to bestow the onlookers with a safe year. The size of the torches and the duration of Otaimatsu vary from day to day. On most days, ten medium sized torches are brought up to and carried across the balcony one after the other, and the entire event lasts about twenty minutes, while the audience stands in the courtyard below the wooden temple hall.For more information click here. Unfortunately we were visiting in late May but still enjoyed the nice views of the city from the balcony.
Wakakusa-yama
Hours: 9:00 to 17:00
Closed: June 22 to September 11, November 24 to March 19
Admission: Y150
The view from the top of the 350 metre Mount Wakakusa (a grass covered mountain behind Nara Park) has unobstructed views over the city however you are only allowed to climb it in spring and fall to protect the native grasses that grow on the mountain. However, strolling along the base of it is really nice with some cute souvenir shops and of course free-roaming deer so it makes for a really nice walk from Nigatsu-do to Kasuga-taisha.
Kasuga-taisha
Hours: 6:30 to 17:30 (slightly shorter in winter)
Admission: Free (outer area), Y500 (inner area)
Kasuga Taisha is Nara's most celebrated shrine. It was established at the same time as the capital and is dedicated to the deity responsible for the protection of the city. Kasuga Taisha was also the tutelary shrine of the Fujiwara (Japan's most powerful family clan during most of the Nara and Heian Periods). Like the Ise Shrines, Kasuga Taisha had been periodically torn down and rebuilt every 20 years for many centuries. In the case of Kasuga Taisha, however, that Shinto custom was discontinued at the end of the Edo Period. Beyond the shrine's offering hall, which can be visited free of charge, there is a paid inner area which provides a closer view of the shrine's inner buildings. Furthest in is the main sanctuary, containing many small shrines that display the distinctive Kasuga style of shrine architecture, characterized by a sloping roof extending over the front of the building. The main sanctuary may be viewed from the outside, but not entered. Kasuga Taisha is famous for its lanterns, which have been donated by worshipers. Hundreds of bronze lanterns can be found hanging from the buildings, while as many stone lanterns line the approaches to the shrine. The lanterns are lit twice a year for the Lantern Festivals in early February and mid August.
There are many other places to in Nara that we didn't visit. Near to the park you can find the Isuien and Yoshikien Gardens as well as the merchant area of Naramachi. Horyuji, Yakushiji and Toshodaiji Temples as well as Heijo Palace lie to the West of the central city and can be reached easily using JR or Kintetsu trains. For most people a day trip to Nara is enough but you may want to spend a night or do two day trips if you want to see absolutely everything. Nara is only about a half an hour train ride from Osaka and Kyoto so it is easily accessible, definitely worth a visit for the history and also the deer ^^;
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